Tunes, Towns & Timmy: An Irish Ramble

Zack’s Rating: ★★★★½☆
Ease of Travel: ★★★½☆
Wallet Friendly: ★★★½☆

Intro to the Trip:

We set out on this trip after we dropped our son off in Dublin for his choir tour through Ireland. We were dedicated to a tour of our own with no agenda and headed out for the Northwest Irish coast. The backdrop of his two performances gave us a reason to visit Ireland again, and we had no problem happily passing the time along the way.

This trip wasn’t about rushing through tourist sites; it was about slowing down, soaking up the local life, and enjoying the country without having to rush.

Zack’s Reflections:

As this was our second trip to Ireland — and we had previously covered the obligatory Cliffs of Moher and visited many castles that ranged from Disneyland to rubble — we decided to home base in Clifden, a small Irish town on the northwest coast. Clifden is about an hour outside of Galway (as long as you aren’t delayed by tractors or sheep), and we couldn’t have been happier with our decision.

Ireland has a way of sucking you in — one pint, one song, one winding road at a time.

One favorite example was the drive along Sky Road near Clifden — a narrow, winding stretch that opened up to breathtaking ocean views, far from the usual crowds and tour buses. The ease of travel gets a few deductions for driving on the opposite side of the road and navigating narrow, sometimes treacherous roadways. It’s definitely something you can overcome, but it adds a layer of difficulty.

Clifden had great restaurants, great pubs, and was very walkable — our car only moved for a trip to the Sky Road during the four days we spent there for R&R. You’ll have to dig a little to find it, but it’s truly an amazing place. Nearly every restaurant could have earned 4 stars anywhere else, but for the sake of ranking, we had to let a couple slip into the high 3s. And the pubs and live music? As good as you'll find anywhere.

The purpose of this visit was to relax and have no purpose. We slept in, walked around the village, and became part of the culture for 3+ days. The goal was to clear our heads and become immersed — and I can’t think of a better place to have done this. I don’t handle trying to rest well, and I slept later in Clifden than I have anywhere in years.

After Clifden, we were familiar with our next stop of Galway — our favorite “city” in Ireland, and a much better vibe than Dublin in both of our experiences. Galway is definitely the music hub of Ireland, and you could explore for a few days here just wandering from pub to pub. It’s also located on the beautiful Galway River, which hosts swans, the occasional trout, and features a great walking trail where it’s common to see locals just hanging out on the bank with a green or brown bottle of ale. Galway is a friendly city, and the service was excellent everywhere we went.

A highlight of this trip was getting to hear my son Noah perform with an ensemble choir at the magnificent Galway Cathedral. They performed Illuminare, featuring 180+ voices, the Galway City Orchestra, and music by Composer-in-Residence Elaine Hagenberg. Not a dry eye in the house during this performance, and I can honestly say it was one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced in my life.

Another night, on a recommendation by our new friends — the suit purveyors at Anthony Ryans — was to go watch a big sporting event that evening. We ended up catching the Gaelic Games regional final match of hurling between Limerick and Cork. It was an absolute blast and gave us an authentic taste of local sporting culture.

We also made a trip to Belfast on a bit of a whim (see below). While we were very impressed with the Game of Thrones Studio Tour, the overall city of Belfast was just okay. I’m not sure I would make a huge effort to squeeze this into a trip if time was a factor, but in all fairness to Belfast, we weren't there very long.

We typically avoid spending too much time in Dublin — think of it like New Orleans. You’ll have a lot of fun, but so will a lot of bachelor parties and weekend ragers.

One moment that has to be mentioned was meeting Timmy Donovan at Sean’s Bar in Athlone — one of the highlights of any trip I’ve ever taken. Timmy took the time to walk us through the origins of whiskey, the history of Athlone, and the incredible story behind Sean’s Bar, which dates back to 900 AD. He even hinted at working with some major media outlets — though we’re not at liberty to say more — but keep an eye out for him in the near future. He’s one of those rare, deserving individuals whose passion, humility, and hard work make a lasting impression. I truly hope he hits the big time. If you find yourself in Athlone, go to Sean’s Bar and ask for Timmy. Tell him Zack's Travel sent you. You won’t be disappointed.

SIDE MISSION:

Belfast, Northern Ireland

A memorable experience on this trip was an impromptu drive across Northern Ireland. The Wild Atlantic Way and the roads across the northern third of Northern Ireland are small two-lane rural highways, with the occasional traffic stack-up behind a tractor. On a whim, we decided to head toward Belfast to check out the Game of Thrones Studio Tour. The drive itself was scenic and enjoyable — well worth the side adventure. We capped off this unexpected excursion with an overnight stay at The Europa Hotel in Belfast.

Where We Stayed:

• Apartment 6, Clifden Bay Apartments, Clifden – ★★★★☆

  The view is 4.5 stars and the furnishings more like a 3.5, so we’re averaging it out to a 4-star stay. Not fancy, so don’t expect luxury, but absolutely perfect for enjoying Clifden. We were very happy with the choice. The view was absolutely incredible.

• Europa Hotel, Belfast – ★★★★☆

  Known as the “most bombed hotel in the world,” the Europa suffered an astonishing 33 bomb attacks during the Troubles before finally reopening after extensive renovation. Staying here offers both comfort and a direct connection to Belfast’s turbulent past — a moving experience.

• The Leonardo, Galway – ★★★¾☆

  Another place that gets 4.5 stars for location and a little less because it’s not quite a 4-star hotel on amenities. This would be a first-choice hotel of mine in Galway. It’s located at the beginning of the Latin Quarter and has a parking garage — a big bonus in this city. I’ll be back at this hotel and it would be my first recommendation for anyone visiting Galway.

• The Wren Urban Nest, Dublin – ★★★¾☆

  A great little eco-friendly hotel located right in the heart of Dublin. The rooms are small but modern, thoughtfully designed, and perfect for a short city stay. The location is unbeatable — walkable to just about everything. The trendy hotel bar is worth mentioning as well, adding to the vibe. If the rooms weren’t such a compact format, The Wren would be a 4-star stay. Still, I’d absolutely stay here again for a quick Dublin visit.

Where We Ate:

• Mitchell’s Seafood Restaurant, Clifden – ★★★★★

  This is hands down the best restaurant in Clifden. Be sure to make reservations—it’s popular for a reason. We were absolutely blown away by the experience. The romantic atmosphere and top-notch, high-end fare made for an unforgettable evening.

• Willow Tree Restaurant, Clifden – ★★★★½☆

  A cozy, family-run gem known for its elevated Irish dishes and warm hospitality. Located right off Clifden’s main square, we enjoyed a leisurely late lunch and got the impression from our server, Sandra—who may well be part of the family—that it’s run with true local pride. The restaurant also focuses on sustainable practices and a welcome-at-home atmosphere, making it a must-visit for anyone craving a genuine Clifden dining experience.

• Guy’s Bar, Clifden – ★★★★☆

  A lively lunch and dinner spot, Guy’s blends old-school charm with a modern gastropub vibe. They start taking walk-ins at 6:00 PM, but the line builds fast, so get there early if you don’t want a long wait. Friendly staff, hearty food, and the occasional traditional music session make it easy to see why this place is always buzzing — it’s a proper Clifden staple.

• Marconi Restaurant, Clifden – ★★★★☆

  Great food and great conversation — we met new Swiss friends Bernard and Mila over a memorable meal. Dinners like this are what made Ireland feel so special. We got to know our table neighbors and learned about their lives and families. One of many topics of conversation was how unfortunate it is that most Americans grow up learning only English in school — as they spoke French to each other, while Mila’s native language was German and Bernard spoke a Swiss mountain dialect. It was one of those nights where the meal and the people made for an experience we won’t forget.

• EJ Kings Bar & Restaurant, Clifden – ★★★☆☆

  Traditional Irish seafood fare. The best part? Swapping stories with cyclists from Oregon on a Backroads Tour. The food was good, the bar was just okay — and while this place could have easily been a favorite, the bar for pubs and atmosphere in Clifden was set a little too high on this trip. Still a solid stop if you’re in the mood for seafood.

• Monroe’s (during Galway Folk Festival) – ★★★★★

  We visited Monroe’s during the Irish Folk Festival, and this place quickly became a highlight. Unlike many pubs that focus strictly on traditional Irish music, Monroe’s offered a more eclectic lineup. The venue itself looked super cool, although we stayed on the pub side with a lively vibe. It’s located just across the bridge from the Latin Quarter, making it the perfect escape if you’re looking for something a little less chaotic but still packed with energy. A great stop in Galway that blends atmosphere, variety, and local charm.

• Xi’an Street Food, Galway – ★★★★½☆

  A straight take-away late-night Asian restaurant and we absolutely destroyed our food from here after a late night at the pub. It might have been the time of evening, but the noodle soup was exactly what hit the spot.

• John Keogh’s Gastropub, Galway– ★★★½☆

  Overall vibe was standard Irish gastropub. Service was good and food was ok but not spectacular. Nothing standout, but not a bad choice.

• Busker Browns, Galway – ★★★½☆

  Buskers was where it was recommended we watch the hurling match. The food was standard, and the gastropub-style sports bar was a fine place to watch the game, although I think the atmosphere could have been raised up just a little bit.

• The Cellar Gastropub, Galway – ★★★☆☆

  One of the first places we had lunch in Galway. I had the chicken curry and Natalie had the Caesar salad. It was good but not memorable. This was my 3rd or 4th curry of the trip, and I would rate it in the middle.

• River View Bistro, Athlone – ★★★½☆

  Solid food with scenic views of the River Shannon. When you stop to visit Sean's Bar, The River View Bistro next door is a good lunch spot.

• Fitzsimons Temple Bar, Dublin – ★★★½☆

  Pizza and a tandoori chicken tikka pizza that soaked up the Carlsberg nicely. Live Irish music in the Temple Bar area is always a draw, and Fitzsimons pulls it off well. Finding a seat at the right time is half the battle in this neighborhood, and your chances here are as good as anywhere. All in all, it’s a worthy stop if you’re pub-hopping in the Temple Bar district.

• Tapped, Dublin – ★★★½☆

  Tapped sits just off Grafton Street with a modern vibe and plenty of screens for catching a game. The space feels more like a trendy hangout or sports bar than a traditional Irish pub.

• Nancy Hands, Dublin – ★★½☆

  A classic Irish pub menu, but unfortunately it landed at the bottom of the list for us. The food was fine, but nothing stood out — especially compared to the many other great options in Dublin.

Where We Drank:

• Lowry’s Bar, Clifden – ★★★★★

  An authentic Irish pub experience with traditional music and hearty pub food. This was our home for nightly pub music in Clifden. It seemed to be the most consistent for late-night music, typically starting around 10:00 PM. The people were friendly and the music was great. Be sure to ask for Damien, the pub’s co-owner, who was recently featured for attempting a Guinness World Record for most pubs visited in 24 hours — a true Clifden character.

• MC McGraths, Clifden – ★★★¾☆

  While second to our favorite Lowry’s, MC’s was a proper Irish pub with proper Irish music. Atmosphere was good, music was good — no complaints, but not over the top.

• The Quays, Galway – ★★★★☆

  While we have tried many music pubs in Galway, this is the one where the music can bring the house down. It gets packed — I mean packed — so you should get there early to get a table. There are also some great seats behind the stage. Early is like 5:45pm. The music leans more toward pop covers than traditional Irish, which can be a nice change after a while in Ireland. If you want to party, The Quays is it.

Unique Stops:

• Sky Road, Stunning Drive, Clifden – ★★★★½☆

  Breathtaking coastal views just outside Clifden. A must-see scenic route, especially during golden hour.

• Kylemore Abbey and Walled Gardens, Historical Site, Clifden – ★★★★☆

  Located about 30 minutes from Clifden and a little over an hour from Galway, this restored Abbey/Estate has stunning architecture nestled in the Connemara countryside with beautiful gardens to stroll through. If your nearby, its worth the stop, if your not...don't ruin another opportunity making the trek.

• Sean’s Bar, Legendary Watering Hole, Athlone – ★★★★★

  While a pub would normally be in the Where We Drank section, this was not just a pint we had — this was an experience. I’ve mentioned Timmy above, but don’t miss Sean’s Bar as you work your way through Ireland. Athlone is a neat little town on the River Shannon and a great stopping point between Dublin and Galway.

• Anthony Ryans, Clothing Store, Galway – ★★★★★

  A family-run Galway institution since 1909, located in the heart of the Latin Quarter. We had a fantastic shopping experience here — Paddy and Damien (our associates) took extra special care fitting me for a new wardrobe of custom-fitted suit jackets and pants. We even returned to buy one for Noah as we loved their styling and euro fit from their tailor.

• Game of Thrones Studio Tour – ★★★★½☆

  If you’re a fan of the show, this tour is an absolute must. Located at the original filming studio close to Belfast, the experience is incredibly well done — the sets and props are pretty amazing to see if you're familiar with the show. You’ll park at a designated lot about 10 minutes away, and they’ll shuttle you in by bus to the actual studio. Book your tickets in advance, and don’t be late. The staff runs a very organized, on-time experience and made it clear they weren’t making many exceptions for people who missed their scheduled entry. Once you’re inside, it’s well worth it — even for casual fans.

Travel Tips:

• Huge mistake Americans make: Turn down the conversion on ATMs and tell anyone who asks if you want to pay in Euros or dollars that you want the local currency (Euros). Don’t worry, your bank will convert it for you. They charge you an exchange fee when you do this — sometimes over 10%.

• Book ahead of time and spend the extra money to rent an automatic car. These are more expensive and harder to find, but make driving on the opposite side of the road exceptionally easier. No, I’m serious — do this!

• Don’t be afraid to splurge on a private tour guide. Be honest up front about what you want, and don’t be afraid to say, “Hit the highlights and no need to draw the tour out for the sake of time.” Bonus tip: Tell them you want to end the tour at their favorite local bar — most guides are happy to accommodate and this is a great way to find hidden gems.

• The weather in Ireland is unpredictable — think of it like a cold rainforest. Expect some rain every day, but not all day. Don’t be discouraged by the forecasts; most days will show rain, but you’ll likely have some dry stretches too.

• From my wife: There are no good hair days in Ireland. Embrace the humidity, the wind, and the wild hair.

Final Thoughts:

We would absolutely return to Ireland — though next time, it would likely be to bring a group of friends and show them what we’ve learned over our first two trips. Ireland is a small island, and you can see it in a relatively short period of time — or you stretch it out and and take it slow. Both approaches are rewarding.

For us, the charm of this country goes far beyond its postcard views. It’s the pace of life, the warmth of the people, and the music that floats out of every pub door.

There’s simply no substitute for getting lost in a small Irish village, where conversation and song flow as easily as the Guinness (or in my case, the Danish beer Carlsberg).