Pamplona, Spain - The Running of the Bulls

The Experience

There’s no real way to describe the mix of nerves and excitement that builds as you wait for the first rocket to fire, signaling the release of the bulls. You’re shoulder to shoulder with other runners, heart pounding, eyes scanning the cobblestone streets. Then the second rocket fires — and it’s game on.

We ran right before Dead Man's Corner, darting down narrow streets with massive animals thundering behind us. It’s fast, it’s intense, and it’s over before you know it — but the rush stays with you.

Like many before us, we were inspired by The Sun Also Rises, Hemingway’s classic novel that immortalized Pamplona’s San Fermín festival nearly a century ago. Reading his gritty, romantic depiction of bull runs and café culture lit a fire in us years ago — and now, standing in those very streets, it all came to life. The energy, the danger, the tradition — it felt like we were stepping straight into the pages of his book.

What to Expect in the City

Pamplona during San Fermín is electric — and loud. The parties don’t stop. Literally. The celebration goes 24 hours a day with music, parades, dancing, fireworks, and nonstop energy in the streets. If you’re staying in the city and plan on keeping somewhat normal sleeping hours (especially with kids), pack earplugs. Trust me — they’ll make a big difference when it’s 3 a.m. and the party is still going strong outside your window.

If you’re traveling with family or friends who won’t be running, renting a spot on a balcony along the course is absolutely worth it. It gives them a safe, elevated view of the action and lets them soak in the tradition without the chaos of the street. The owners of Home Sweet Home Main St Pamplona helped arrange a perfect spot for our group — and after the run, they hosted a wine and charcuterie party back at the apartment for everyone. It was the perfect way to unwind and celebrate the experience together.

Where We Stayed

For anyone thinking about doing this, especially with family in tow, I can’t recommend Home Sweet Home Main St Pamplona enough. This place was clean, modern, and perfectly located. We could walk to everything — the starting line, the arena, cafés, and shops — yet it was just far enough from the chaos to feel comfortable and safe. It was an ideal home base, especially if you’re bringing kids or tagging along as a spectator.

Pro tip: Let us help you plan early — the booking window is short. Most places don’t open reservations more than a year in advance, and when they do, they fill up almost immediately. Planning ahead is key for a smooth, unforgettable experience.

Eat and Drink

While the food didn’t blow us away, the drinks — and the drinking culture — definitely added to the experience. Pamplona knows how to keep a party going, and the streets are lined with pop-up bars, cafés, and drink stands serving beer, wine, sangria, and kalimotxo — a local mix of red wine and cola.

We gave it a shot, embracing the spirit of the festival and the tradition of cheap box wine and generic cola… but let’s just say, there’s a reason most people outside of northern Spain have never heard of this combination. It’s not exactly easy on the tastebuds — or the head. Still, when in Pamplona, you try the kalimotxo, raise your plastic cup, and toast to the madness around you.

That said, don’t expect craft cocktails or carefully aged wines — it’s more about the energy and camaraderie than the quality. Whether it was toasting a morning run or raising a glass late into the night, there was no shortage of celebration.

One must-visit spot is Café Iruña, founded in 1888 and famously one of Hemingway’s favorite haunts. It’s a beautiful, old-world café right on Plaza del Castillo, and stepping inside feels like a nod to literary history. We stopped by for drinks and to soak up the atmosphere — and it absolutely delivered on charm. However, during the San Fermín festival, Café Iruña becomes extremely crowded, making it tough to find a seat or relax. And while it’s worth visiting for the vibe, the food was nothing memorable. You come here for the history and a cold drink, not a culinary experience.

We bounced around quite a bit — grabbing tapas from small bars in the old town, popping into street cafés, and sampling local wines and cocktails along the way. We toasted a successful run with wine and charcuterie back at the balcony party hosted by Home Sweet Home Main St Pamplona.

The food in Pamplona wasn’t anything to write home about, but the shared experience and festive spirit made every stop memorable in its own way.

Pro tip: Grab drinks early at Café Iruña if you want to avoid the massive crowds. By afternoon, the lines grow long and seating becomes a challenge. And if you’re planning something special — like a wine and charcuterie party post-run — work with your host ahead of time. Ours made it incredibly easy, and it ended up being a highlight of the trip.

Tips for Future Runners (or Spectators)

1. Get there early — Like really early. If you want a good spot or plan to run, be in position before 7:00 a.m.

2. Wear the red and white — The traditional uniform is a white shirt and pants with a red sash and neckerchief. It’s not just for looks — it’s part of the spirit of the festival. Don’t worry about buying it ahead of time; there are hundreds of shops in Pamplona selling the full outfit as soon as you arrive.

3. Know your limits — Not everyone needs to run the whole course. Pick your entry point and know your exit.

4. Respect the event — This isn’t just a thrill-seeking activity. It’s a cultural tradition deeply rooted in history and pride.

5. Have a plan — Especially if you’re bringing your family. Know where to meet, where to watch, and how to stay safe.

Final Thoughts

Running with the bulls was wild, intense, and unforgettable — one of those stories I’ll be telling for the rest of my life. Getting to share it with friends like Wes and Ben made it even better. Whether you’re an adventure-seeker or just want to take in the sights, sounds, and culture of Pamplona during San Fermín, it’s something you have to experience at least once.

And if you do? Stay somewhere nice. You’ll want a good place to catch your breath afterward.