Edinburgh: Castles in the Mist & Whisky in the Glass

Zack’s Rating: ★★★★☆ Ease of Travel: ★★★★★ Wallet Friendly: ★★★☆☆

Zack’s Reflections:

Edinburgh was a hit. It’s a gorgeous, well-preserved old world city with plenty to

explore. While the Royal Mile can be a bit crowded and touristy, it’s still a beautifully done area and worth

the visit. One of the unexpected highlights was the Harry Potter tour by The Potter Trail — informative, fun,

and surprisingly memorable.

Staying in the West End turned out to be a great choice. It offered quick access to both Old Town and New

Town while providing a quieter, less crowded home base. All areas we wanted to cover were walkable or just a short Uber ride away. It also had several great neighborhood pubs and upscale dining spots nearby when we didn’t want to venture too far out.

Overall, I’d highly recommend Edinburgh. The airport is conveniently located, transportation into the city is

easy, the locals are friendly, and the city itself strikes a great balance between history and comfort.

About the Destination:

Edinburgh, with its dramatic architecture, steep cobblestone streets, and rich literary and royal history, it’s

a city that feels both grounded and magical. From medieval castles and centuries-old churches to lively

pubs and elegant townhouses, Edinburgh is layered with stories. Whether you’re interested in the corners of inspiration behind J.K. Rowling's Harry Potter or relaxing with a dram of Johnnie Walker in a cozy pub, there’s a rhythm to this city that makes you want to stay longer than planned.

Highlights:

• Incredible architecture and walkability, especially through Old Town and the Royal Mile.

• Late sunsets during the spring and summer make for long sightseeing days.

• Friendly locals and excellent pub culture — especially in the West End.

• City feels safe and easy to navigate with Uber, taxis, and footpaths.

Getting There:

We flew Delta — and it left a lot to be desired. Every flight was delayed due to maintenance, planes were

dirty, and the staff at the counter seemed overwhelmed and uninformed. The flight before ours even sat on

the tarmac for over an hour because they couldn’t find anyone to dock the plane. Right now, Delta is a last

resort carrier in my book. Hopefully, they improve.

Where We Stayed:

Dragon Hotel Suites (Edinburgh, Scotland) – ★★★½☆ These are serviced apartments located

around the city. Ours, on Melville Street, was compact but well laid out — great for a couple and a

1teenager. It’s a solid mile from Old Town, but only about a five-minute walk to New Town and nearby

restaurants and bars. A functional, no-frills stay.

Where We Ate:

The Inveraray Inn (Rabbie’s Tour Stop – Inveraray, Scotland) – ★★★★★ We stopped in

Inveraray during our Rabbie’s tour and had an incredible meal. The mussels and fisherman’s soup,

made from the nearby loch, were absolutely delicious. We washed it all down with a local Highlands

scotch. As a bonus, a local named (I’ll add later) added to the experience.

Johnnie Walker Experience – ★★★★☆ Sleek, modern, and trendy. What earns it 4 stars is the

rooftop view of Edinburgh Castle and a solid drinks-and-charcuterie combo. I’ve got a soft spot for

Johnnie Walker Black, so this was a fun stop.

Teuchters (Edinburgh, Scotland) – ★★★★½☆ Located in the West End, Teuchters is a laid-back

local pub known for its Scottish fare and strong whisky selection. It's a popular stop for rugby fans

and neighborhood regulars. The steak pie was the best I’ve ever had — perfect after a long day of

crowds and closed kitchens. Natalie’s chicken salad and Noah’s burger were both solid, and the

Scotch of the Week is always a good call in Scotland. Call ahead or go early, as seating can fill up

quickly.

Fox and Faun – ★★★★½☆ Great little West End pub with quick bar service, a fun crowd watching

the Champions League final, and incredible live music. The female pianist sang all the hits and kept

the energy high. Sadly, the kitchen had just closed when we arrived, but it’s definitely worth a visit.

Chizuru Tei (Edinburgh, Scotland) – ★★★☆☆ Located near Haymarket station, this modest

Japanese eatery offers sushi and traditional hot dishes. Portions were generous, and it served as a

casual dinner option after a long day. This place is BYOB and takes cash only, and while not terrible,

we weren’t blown away either.

Indian Lounge (Edinburgh, Scotland) – ★★★☆☆ Locally owned Indian restaurant with excellent

service. The manager was helpful in making meal suggestions, but the dishes were heavy on

chopped onions. If you enjoy that style of Indian cuisine, this might be your spot.

Where We Drank

Stramash – ★★★½☆ A music venue set in an old church under a bridge near Old Town. They

feature live bands seven nights a week. The venue is impressive, but our visit during the first set felt

a bit subdued. Likely better later in the evening.

Unique Stops:

The Potter Tour (Private Edition) – ★★★★★ A standout experience thanks to our guide Aleister. The tour hit all the JK Rowling and Harry Potter landmarks around Edinburgh, including Greyfriars Kirkyard and the Elephant House Café. Aleister kept it short, punchy, and fun — just the way we like it. Go with The Potter Tour company; there are many copycats, but this one is the real deal.

Boom Barbers – West End – ★★★★★ Needed a haircut for Noah, and Maxi delivered. He

squeezed us in last minute and gave Noah a great cut. Super friendly and professional.

Mass at St. John’s Episcopal Church – ★★★★★ We began our Sunday here in a stunning

cathedral. The beauty of the space and the angelic voices of the choir gave us chills — a meaningful

and peaceful moment during the trip.

Edinburgh Castle – ★★★½☆ A must-see landmark packed with history, including the Scottish

crown jewels. While impressive, the crowds can make the experience feel rushed. Worth a speed

walk-through rather than anchoring your day around it.

Rabbie’s Tours – Loch Lomond, Stirling Castle & the Kelpies – ★★★½☆ I want to be clear: our

tour guide, Trevor, was a 10 out of 10, and Rabbie’s Tours truly delivered an excellent program. The 3.5-star rating reflects the reality of trying to experience the Highlands in one day — it’s just too much bus time. You’ll spend 8–10 hours on and off a bus, and a few hours before the end, you’ll be ready for it to end. That said, the Loch Lomond tour is the best single-day option. Loch Ness is farther and, aside from the Nessie legend, not as scenic. This tour covered the Kelpies, Loch Lomond, the Trossachs, and Doune Castle — a filming location for Monte Python, the Pilot of Game of Thrones, and the Outlander.

Edinburgh Travel Tips:

Restaurant kitchens often close around 9:00 PM, even when Google says otherwise. While it stays

light until almost 10:00 in the spring and summer, food options start dwindling early. Consider

eating before 8:30, or prepare for takeaway.

Don’t trust the hours listed online, especially in Old Town. Many places stop seating early or fill up

with reservations. Don’t be afraid to use Uber or taxis, even for short distances. Edinburgh’s hills will wear you out —treat yourself to a ride one way.

Weather is unpredictable — like a colder rainforest. You’ll likely get rained on, but rarely all day.

Bring layers and be prepared.

Private tour guides are the best way to explore. Be clear with your expectations upfront. Let them

know it’s okay to cut it short if you cover the highlights — they’ll appreciate it, and you’ll skip the filler.

I usually ask if we can end near a specific bar, and most guides make it work.

Travel tip from my wife: There are no good hair days in Scotland and Ireland.

Pack comfortable walking shoes — between cobblestones and elevation changes, your feet will

thank you.