DRIFTING THROUGH THE ALPS

Drifting Through the Alps is a travel journey through some of Europe’s most stunning mountain towns — from Christmas markets in Italy and Austria to fondue-filled nights beneath the Matterhorn in Switzerland.

Zack’s Rating: ★★★★★ Ease of Travel: ★★★★☆ Wallet Friendly: ★★★☆☆

Rafter M Reflections:

The Alps are an incredible place. Natalie and I actually visited years ago when we first started dating, and it always stuck with us as somewhere we wanted to return. There’s just so much depth here — different cultures, languages, food, and landscapes — all packed into a relatively small area. In our opinion, it far exceeds a typical Colorado ski vacation or mountain town. Once you’ve experienced the Alps, it’s hard not to want to come back.

This trip was about slowing down, spending time with friends, wandering Christmas markets, and letting the journey itself be part of the experience. We were traveling with The Drifters — our close friends John and Brittany Dennie — which made the entire trip even better. Good people, good pacing, and no rush to be anywhere too fast.

Travel Day (Northwest Arkansas → Munich → Vipiteno)

Our trip kicked off in Northwest Arkansas, and for once, no news was good news. We rolled straight into the airport, parked, scanned our passports online, and breezed through security without a single hiccup — a small travel miracle to start the adventure.

One important note when booking international flights: sometimes airlines (United, in our case) will give you an impossibly short connection. If that happens, call and request a change. Most flights to Europe leave only once per evening, so missing that connection can cost you an entire day of your trip.

We had a five-hour layover at O’Hare. Although our Priority Pass technically gave us access to a lounge four terminals away, we skipped it and instead commandeered a high-top at Chili’s. Not glamorous, but comfortable — and it gave The Drifters a perfect basecamp to regroup, eat something familiar, and mentally prepare for the long haul.

The flights were smooth, and before long we were touching down in Munich.

At the airport, we picked up our rental car from Europcar, which was quick and painless. One of the side quests of this trip was letting Natalie finally test the no-speed-limit zones on the autobahn. Our Volvo had over 400 horsepower… I stopped checking the speedometer once it floated past 160 km/h.

Driving south toward Italy, the scenery began to rise — rolling hills turning into steep Alpine peaks. Crossing the Brenner Pass felt like our official welcome to the mountains. It’s hard to believe this peaceful stretch once served as a Roman trade corridor and later an escape route during WWII.

We made a quick stop at the Brenner outlet mall — partly for necessities and partly because we always travel carry-on only on the way out. We pack a foldable duffel for the return trip, which inevitably fills up with items that “stimulate the local economy.”

Soon after, we arrived in Vipiteno, a pastel-colored Alpine village that instantly felt cozy and inviting. We checked in, grabbed dinner, and pushed ourselves to stay awake until about 7–8 p.m. local time to beat jet lag.

VIPITENO, ITALY

After World War I, Vipiteno — once part of Austria — was annexed by Italy. That blend of Tyrolean and Italian culture shows up everywhere: in the architecture, the food, the language, and the pace of daily life. It’s easily one of Italy’s most charming Alpine towns.

We spent two days wandering cobblestone streets, browsing small shops, and soaking in the mountain atmosphere. People gather around outdoor heaters, linger over meals, and move at an unhurried pace — exactly what we were hoping for at the start of the trip.

Where We Stayed:

Hotel Schwarzer Adler — ★★★★☆ (4.00)

A solid, traditional Alpine hotel with a great central location that makes it easy to explore town on foot. The rooms were comfortable and functional, and the overall atmosphere leaned classic rather than modern — which felt fitting for the setting. Not flashy, but dependable, well-run, and a good choice if location and comfort matter more than luxury extras.

Where We Ate:

Nepomuk — ★★★★☆ (4.25)
A perfect first-night stop. Pizza was excellent, but the local dumplings and goulash were the real standouts. Warm, welcoming, and ideal after a long travel day.
Schwarzer Adler Restaurant — ★★★★☆ (4.00)
A classic Tyrolean restaurant with rich flavors and a refined Alpine setting. It felt elevated without being formal — the kind of place locals clearly return to.
Kolping Restaurant — ★★★★★ (4.75)
A true hidden gem and one of our favorite meals in Vipiteno. Comfortable enough for ski clothes, but elevated food and excellent service. The veal and schnitzel were outstanding, and the champagne cocktails were shockingly affordable.

Where We Drank:

Vipiteno Christmas Market — ★★★★☆ (4.25)
Apple cider with a splash of rum, festive lights, chestnuts roasting, and a warm, buzzing crowd — the perfect introduction to town. This is where we officially familiarized ourselves with Glühwein, Apfelrum, and Eierlikör — a rich, yellow, eggnog-like liqueur that I never saw again… yet still think about to this day. We also crushed massive Austrian bratwursts piled high with sauerkraut, and while you definitely smelled like it for the next three days, the kraut alone was absolutely worth it.
Stiftskeller — Abbazia di Novacella Monastery & Winery — ★★★★★ (5.00)
Heavy glassware, warm lighting, and an atmosphere meant for slow, intentional tasting. We stopped for a pre-tour drink and immediately wished we’d planned more time.
Alex’s Bar — ★★★★☆ (4.00) (Dive Bar Rating)
No-frills sports tavern with locals and travelers mixed together. Exactly right when you want something simple.

What We Explored:

Hutstuebele Hat Shop — Vipiteno — ★★★★★ (5.00)
Hutstübele was a hat shop in Vipiteno and immediately reminded us of Rafter M's Austrian cousin. The shop blends familiar hats like our Stetson crushables and Goorin Bros with a deeply local take on headwear, most notably the traditional Alpine Hutter hat. Just like at home, the experience felt personal and rooted in heritage, where hats aren’t treated as accessories but as part of everyday identity.
Abbazia di Novacella Monastery & Winery — Varna — ★★★★★ (5.00)
Founded in 1142, this active Augustinian abbey features one of the most ornate basilicas we’ve ever seen. Peaceful grounds, incredible architecture, and outstanding white wines.
Santa Maddalena (St. Magdalena), Val di Funes — ★★★★★ (5.00)
One of the most iconic Dolomite viewpoints anywhere. Rolling meadows, sharp peaks, and postcard-perfect churches. We accidentally drove up a private mountain road, stepped out, and the Dolomites were glowing in front of us.
Brenner Outlet Center — ★★★★☆ (4.00)
Great Alpine brands at solid prices and a perfect reminder not to overpack. We picked up boots and a few final cold-weather pieces at outlet-style discounted prices, which made this stop both convenient and surprisingly useful early in the trip.
Brixen (Bressanone) — ★★★★☆ (4.50)
An easy stop just outside Vipiteno, Brixen feels like a slightly larger cousin with the same Italian-Alpine charm. The Brixen Christmas Market was festive and inviting, and the Brixen Cathedral (Duomo di Bressanone) is a beautiful centerpiece of the historic center. It’s a town we’d absolutely consider staying in next time — familiar like Vipiteno, but with a larger, more energetic city core.

Vipiteno Travel Tip:

Buy a vignette before driving in Austria — it’s not included with rental cars, and the fine will absolutely find you. Tyroleans aren’t rude; they’re efficient. Expect people to stare — it’s cultural curiosity, not hostility.

INNSBRUCK, AUSTRIA

Innsbruck was a perfect two-day transition from the Italian Alps into Switzerland. It’s a real city surrounded by towering peaks — a rare and impressive combination. It’s also a great town overall and relatively affordable, with plenty to explore. Austria really stood out to me on this trip, and it’s a place I’d love to spend more time in one day.

Where We Stayed:

Goldener Adler — ★★★★☆ (3.75)

A historic hotel in the heart of Old Town. The location could not have been better — steps from shops, cafés, and landmarks. The décor leans heavily into a traditional hunting-lodge style, and while some elements feel dated, the staff and convenience more than make up for it.

Where We Ate:

Goldener Adler Restaurant — ★★★★☆ (4.25)
One of the top restaurants in Innsbruck, and it absolutely lived up to the hype. Classic Austrian dishes done exceptionally well in a historic setting that feels timeless without being stuffy.
Strudel Café Kröll — ★★★★★ (4.75)
A must-stop. Enormous strudel selection ranging from classic apple to Nutella-filled, plus excellent coffee. Warm, cozy, and perfect for a mid-morning or afternoon break.
Restaurant-Bar Krahvogel — ★★★☆☆ (3.00)
A lively spot with hearty Austrian comfort food and a fun bar atmosphere. Not a destination meal by any stretch — we were hungry and it did the job. Not great, not terrible, but perfectly fine if you need something casual right in the middle of the action.

Where We Drank:

360 Bar — ★★★★★ (5.00)
One of the most memorable stops of the entire trip. A circular rooftop bar with true 360-degree views of the surrounding mountain ranges. We lucked into an Austrian bartender who had spent time in Northwest Arkansas — a perfect small-world moment.

Where We Explored:

Nordkette Cable Car (Top of Innsbruck) — ★★★★★ (5.00)
One of our favorite days of the entire trip and an absolute bucket-list experience. The cable car takes you from the heart of Innsbruck straight into the high Alps, with dramatic views the entire way. We rode all the way to the top and then made three different stops as we worked our way back down — Jausenstation at 2,269 meters, Cloud 9 (Iglu Bar), and Hungerburg — bar-hopping between stations and soaking in the changing scenery at each level. Equal parts adventure, scenery, and fun, this is something everyone visiting Innsbruck should do.
Swarovski Crystal Worlds — ★★★☆☆ (3.00)
We visited Swarovski Crystal Worlds, and while there were definitely some beautiful and visually impressive parts, it ultimately felt overrated. There are a few standout moments, but overall it’s probably skippable unless you’re a big fan of the brand or have extra time to fill.

Innsbruck Travel Tips:

Buy the Innsbruck Card if you plan to explore. And understand local traditions — we were unexpectedly Krampus’d. A band of Krampuses surrounded the girls in our group and stole a hat. Aggressive, loud, and terrifying if you don’t know what’s happening — but ultimately all in good fun once you understand the culture.

Between Innsbruck & Zermatt — Transit Tip

Skip the Glacier Express. Instead, take local Swiss trains on the exact same route: Chur → Brig → Andermatt → Visp → Zermatt. Transfers are simple — often just walking across the platform — the scenery is identical, and it saves roughly two hours.

ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND

Zermatt feels different the moment you arrive. Car-free streets, crisp mountain air, and the Matterhorn looming overhead give it an almost surreal feel. Horse-drawn carriages shuttle guests to their hotels, while fondue is served on outdoor patios with fur blankets draped over chairs — equal parts alpine tradition and postcard-worthy charm.

Where We Stayed:

Hotel Testa Grigia — ★★★★☆ (4.25)

Comfortable, clean, and perfectly located near the train station and town center. Not flashy, but exactly what you want after full days outside.

Where We Ate:

Grampi’s — ★★★★☆ (3.75)
Cozy, comforting, and reliable after long travel days. We hadn’t been in Italy for five days, so this more than satisfied our pasta craving. The staff was friendly yet efficient, making it an easy, no-stress meal when we needed it most.
Wymper Stube — ★★★★★ (5.00)
Traditional Swiss mountain cuisine done exceptionally well and a must-do dinner in Zermatt. This is the place for fondue in a town known for great fondue. We loved Wymper Stube and went with the red pepper fondue for a spicier take on the Swiss original. Thank goodness this place doesn’t exist in the U.S. — I’d weigh 500 pounds.
Stéphanie’s Crêpes — ★★★★☆ (4.00)
A perfect grab-and-go option while wandering town. Stéphanie is clearly running a highly successful crêpe operation — fast, efficient, and consistently busy. The crêpes were thin, warm, and generously filled, making this an easy stop whether you’re in the mood for something sweet or savory.
Le Gitan — ★★★★☆ (4.50)
A strong food-driven option in Zermatt with an open grill at the center of the restaurant turning out excellent, well-executed grilled meats. Everything coming off the grill was flavorful and confidently cooked, making this a welcome break from traditional Alpine fare. Cocktails were solid, but the food is the real reason to go. Reservations are a must.

Where We Drank:

Harry’s Ski Bar — ★★★★★ (5.00)
This place was an absolute rager — and we loved it. Expect it to be packed right after the lifts close, but give it a couple of hours and it settles into just the right crowd. Easily one of the top bars we visited on the entire trip and a must-stop for après-ski in Zermatt
Piano Bar — Grand Hotel Zermatterhof — ★★★★☆ (4.50)
A classic, elegant piano bar that feels like stepping back in time. Live piano, expertly made cocktails, and a refined crowd make this a great change of pace from the louder après scene. It’s also a fun place to play fancy for the night and take in a hotel where the ultra-wealthy stay. We liked it enough to come back — easily one of Natalie’s favorite spots in Zermatt.
Brown Cow Pub — ★★★☆☆ (3.50)
An easygoing English-style pub with a familiar, comfortable feel. This was our first stop in Zermatt, and we hadn’t yet adapted to the reality of $27 French fries — so it probably didn’t get a completely fair shake. Still, a solid place to settle in and ease into town.
Unique Hotel Post — ★★★★☆ (4.50)
Great cocktails upstairs and a downstairs DJ club that really gets going after midnight — if you can hang that long. On the nights we were there, they also had live music with a surprisingly good cover band playing everything from Elvis to ABBA to The Beatles, which added a fun, energetic layer to the whole experience.

Where We Explored:

Gornergrat Railway — ★★★★★ (5.00)

One of the most iconic experiences in Zermatt and absolutely worth doing. The cogwheel train climbs steadily above town, delivering nonstop views of the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks the entire way up. Once at the top, the panoramic scenery is unreal — glaciers, jagged mountains, and postcard views in every direction. Even if you’re not a big “mountain activity” person, this one is a can’t-miss.

Zermatt Travel Tip

Buy wine and champagne at the COOP grocery store across from the train station to offset Swiss prices.
The Swiss love a plan and aren’t shy about enforcing it. If you show up without reservations, you may get a very matter-of-fact — almost scolding — “no.” I learned this the hard way on my first trip to Zermatt, and now, on my third visit, I’m hoping to save others from having to learn that lesson themselves.

ZURICH, SWITZERLAND

Zurich was our final stop and served as a soft landing back into city life after the mountains. It’s polished, efficient, and extremely livable — more global financial hub than traditional tourist city.

Where We Stayed:

Locke am Platz — Enge — ★★★★☆ (4.25)

Modern, thoughtfully designed, and located in a quiet residential neighborhood with easy transit access. It felt calm and comfortable — a great place to land at the end of the trip.

Where We Explored:

Lindt Home of Chocolate — ★★★★☆ (4.00)
A fun and well-done experience, especially for chocolate lovers. Generous tastings and engaging exhibits. Reservations are mandatory and should be booked well in advance. Beware the crowds as this is a very popular activity. One huge bonus: you get tons of chocolate.
FIFA Museum — ★★★☆☆ (3.00)
Interesting concept, but ultimately felt like another cash grab by a notoriously crooked organization. Worth visiting only if you’re a die-hard soccer fan.

Zurich Travel Tip

Zurich works best as a short final stop. One or two days is plenty — think of it as a reset before heading home.

Additional Notes & Cost Reality

Switzerland is magical — and shockingly expensive. We highly recommend spending most of your time in the Italian and Austrian Alps, then rounding out the trip with a couple of days in Zermatt.

Priority Pass Tip

Avoid the Swissport Lounge at Chicago O’Hare. It’s not worth changing terminals for.

Final Thoughts

Plan for at least eight days. The Alps reward slow travel, lingering meals, and unplanned moments — especially when you’re drifting through them with close friends. This trip was a reminder that the best experiences happen when you slow down and let a place show you who it really is.