Churchhill, Canada - Polar Bear Migration

The Experience

Our journey to Churchill began with a flight into Winnipeg. We kicked things off with a night at the Fort Garry Hotel — more on that later — and then made our way north to one of the wildest, most unforgettable places in North America.

Churchill is only accessible by plane or train, adding to the remote and rugged appeal of this frontier town. There are no roads connecting it to the rest of Canada, which makes arriving there feel like crossing into a different world altogether.

This time, I was joined by fellow travelers Phil Karber and Wes Karber. Phil is the ultimate travel guru — a writer, adventurer, and polar bear veteran who has visited Churchill in each of the last three decades. As the number of polar bears migrating through the region has declined, his insight into the environmental changes — and the stories from past visits — gave the trip real perspective. You can check out more about Phil and his travel writing here: https://www.amazon.com/stores/author/B001JOEYX0/about

Churchill, Manitoba is known as the “Polar Bear Capital of the World.” Every autumn, polar bears gather near Churchill, waiting for the Hudson Bay to freeze so they can hunt seals. The unique geography and ocean currents make this area one of the first places to form sea ice, drawing bears from miles around.

We were fortunate enough to see the polar bears in four unforgettable ways:

• By Tundra Buggy – We joined a guided expedition into the Churchill Wildlife Management Area, rumbling across the snowy tundra in one of the massive, elevated vehicles built to safely navigate the bear’s natural habitat.

• By Rental Truck – We managed to rent one of the few available trucks in town and did some self-guided exploring along the permitted roads. Spotting a polar bear on your own is equal parts thrilling and humbling.

• By Helicopter – From the air, we gained a stunning perspective on the landscape and watched bears moving freely across the ice and snow below. It was truly a bucket-list moment.

• With a Local Guide – One of the most enriching parts of the trip was exploring on foot and by vehicle with a seasoned local guide. Their knowledge of bear behavior, safety, and the land added depth to the experience and helped us understand the critical balance between tourism and conservation.

To top it all off, we were lucky enough to catch a spectacular show of the Northern Lights one night. While never guaranteed, your chances of seeing the aurora borealis in Churchill are among the best in the world. Watching those green and purple lights dance across the Arctic sky was the perfect exclamation point on an already unforgettable trip.

And just to round things out, our visit happened to fall during Churchill’s Halloween Social — a beloved annual event that brings the whole town together. The community goes all out, from costume contests and games to a full-blown dance. For a town that lives with polar bears at its doorstep, they know how to throw a party. Here’s a great write-up on what makes Halloween in Churchill so unique: https://blog.frontiersnorth.com/2016/10/five-reasons-bring-kids-churchill-halloween

Each of these experiences brought us closer to the wildlife, the land, and the community. Seeing these magnificent animals — and being part of such a tight-knit, resilient town — is something I’ll never forget.

What to Expect in the City

Churchill is a small, isolated town accessible only by train or plane. Despite its size, the town is rich in culture and history. The Itsanitaq Museum offers incredible insights into Inuit culture, showcasing artifacts and exhibits that tell the story of the region’s Indigenous peoples.

Walking through the town, we discovered vibrant murals from the Sea Walls Churchill project, adding color and meaning to many of the buildings. The locals were welcoming, and their stories added depth to our understanding of life in this remote northern community.

Where We Stayed

Fort Garry Hotel – We stayed at the historic Fort Garry Hotel. Built in 1913 by the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, this château-style hotel stands as a testament to Canada’s grand railway era. Its architectural elegance and rich history provided a luxurious start to our adventure. The hotel’s proximity to Union Station and downtown attractions made it an ideal stopover before heading north to Churchill. The stay itself was an unexpected highlight of the trip — with railway-era grandeur, a beautiful bar for swapping stories, and top-notch service from a standout staff and bartender. Highly recommended — it’s the place to stay in downtown Winnipeg.

Iceberg Inn – Bare-bones but functional. Think motor lodge vibes with old mattresses, clean but worn sheets, and just enough comfort to recharge for the next day on the tundra. Nothing fancy — but then again, we weren’t there to soak up luxury accommodations. We were there for polar bears, and Iceberg Inn gave us a warm place to crash in between adventures.

Pro tip: Let us help you plan early — the booking window is short. Most places don’t open reservations more than a year in advance, and when they do, they fill up almost immediately. Planning ahead is key for a smooth, unforgettable experience.

Eat and Drink

Churchill’s dining scene is limited but full of local flavor and charm — but let’s be honest, nothing in Churchill will knock your socks off from a culinary perspective. The food is functional, filling, and exactly what you need after a day out on the tundra.

The Lazy Bear Café (even though we didn’t stay there, we stopped in) served hearty meals that hit the spot after long days in the cold. I enjoyed the hamburger — comforting, simple, and satisfying.

We also made it a point to grab drinks early. During polar bear season, the few restaurants and cafés fill up fast, especially in the afternoons.

Where we ate

• Lazy Bear Café – Warm, hearty meals with local game. Great spot after a day on the tundra. Food is Good, but not life changing.

• Dancing Bear Restaurant – A convenient and reliable option right in town. Great for a sit-down dinner or a relaxed drink after a long day out in the cold. Service was not the best, but gets a bit of a pass due to the crowd.

• The Tundra Pub – A classic local hangout with pub fare, cold drinks, and a fun, laid-back atmosphere. Perfect for winding down and chatting with fellow travelers and locals. Great spot to hear stories of Polar Bear movements and Northern Lights possibilities. We were at the bar with the local guide when he jumped up and told us he had to go quickly because the conditions had gotten perfect for viewing.

Tips for Future Travelers

1. Book Early – Accommodations and tours fill up quickly, especially during polar bear season (October–November).

2. Dress for Extremes – Layer up. The weather can change quickly, and the wind off the bay cuts deep.

3. Respect Wildlife – Always maintain a safe distance and follow your guides’ instructions. These animals are wild and powerful.

4. Explore the Culture – The wildlife is incredible, but Churchill’s culture and people are just as worth getting to know.

5. Be Flexible – Weather can delay flights or impact tour plans. Embrace the adventure.

Final Thoughts

Churchill offers one of the most unique and unforgettable wildlife experiences on the planet. From the majestic polar bears to the welcoming locals and breathtaking tundra, it’s a trip that leaves a lasting mark. Whether you’re in it for the adventure, the conservation story, or simply the wonder of nature, Churchill delivers.

If you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime journey — this is it.